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VAUXHALL XE It might be a General Motors unit, but this little beauty is capable of pumping out 200+bhp and has become a popular perforamce addition to many a classic Ford. |
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Words
and photos: Jon Hill
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HMM, VAUXHALL. DON'T MOAN, IT'S A GREAT UNIT AND MORE THAN WORTHY OF A CLASSIC FORD ENGINE SERIES IN-DEPTH FEATURE. Yep, OK, it's a General Motors unit and nothing to do with the big, bad blue oval. But, wait a minute, yes it is because what we're actually talking about is a Cosworth KBA. You see it's not just Ford engines that the Northampton gods worked their magic on. The likes of Mercedes, Chevrolet, Panther and yes, Vauxhall have all given Cosworth their own blocks or cars, for them to turn into fire-breathing monsters. What we have here then is a unit akin to the current Duratec HE/i4 which is gagging to have the nads tuned off it for not much money. Right now there's a frieght train load of Escorts out there, all running and rallying Vauxhall XEs. What's more, you can pick up a unit for virtually buttons at the moment. So let's ignore what it says on the rocker cover and examine how to wring out an easy 200 bhp, squeeze it all the way to almost 300 and better still, get one in you car - you know it makes sense, even if it is GM. |
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Tech Spec The XE has a cast-iron block with an alloy 16-valve head with belt-driven overhead cams, which are hydraulic in operation. The induction is on the left, which is of course fuel injection, while the exhaust is on the right. The starter motor is also on the left-hand side of the engine. All engines were meant as front-wheel drive units although there is also a 4x4 Cavalier and Calibra. The Manta 1800 block is virtually identical and will accept the XE head. However, more significant is that Mantas are rear-wheel drive and as such, parts can be used to turn the enigne round the right way - for use in classic Fords. There shouldn't really be a question as to which engine you've got since all XE's are 2-litre - kind of reduces the risk a bit. The block is the same as the eight-valve although there are around five different types with minor variations - cheifly these are in the oil ways and some slight differences in the water passages. However, it's worth checking you haven't got an 1800 block, which should have 1.8 cast into it, whereas the XE has 2.0. There is also a system of casting marks on the top of the block - HH or HG, followed by a number. This corresponds to the block version, i.e. HH1 being the first, these were produced up to HH9 and HG1 being the first of then going to HG4, with each block having improved over its predecessor. XEs have cast cranks and connecting rods although Coscast engines have forged pistons. These have flat skirts all the way round, which is different to cast types. Rev limit on a standard engine 7250 rpm, and bore and stroke is equal at 86mm. As we've mentioned, early heads are Coscast and as such, have this cast into the rear - GM ones surprisingly have GM cast into them. There's absolutely no performance difference in either type of head, although, since the later heads are of poorer quality material, they are prone to problems with porosity. The main area for concern is the oil ways, of which there's three - two running down either side the length of the head, while the problem one's the single tract running across the head, in the middle of the unit. Specifically, where this gives problems is the centre head bolt area, which can be bored in manufacture so that there's little material between it and the oil way. Both Coscast, but more likely GM head can be machined like this but the downdrading in materal quality seriously increases the problem with the latter casting. The porous casting can be sorted by eithr re-tubing or generally re-sealing the area but according to specialists SBD, nothing is truly guaranteed. the safest solution is to seek out a Coscast head and use that. You'll know when you have the problem, though - your water will go brown/mayo and you'll think you keep blowing head gaskets. Ports are big and don't need a great deal of work to release further power, although the main area for work is the port-to-throat area. Cams, as you'd expect on a standard road engine, are quite mild with plenty of room for improvements. However, the main concern is cam drive because there are two types depending on which engine you have. Basically, the later SRi (and onwards) engine has a square section to the bottom ot the teeth, whereas early engines have a U-section. You obviously need to know which engine you've got if you're fitting vernier pulleys. The belt-tensioning systems also different on the later engines using two, closer together, idler pulleys in the centre which give more wraparound of the belt round the exhaust pulley. Of further consideration is the method of ignition because ther are two main types. Early engines use a distributor, which is driven off the back of the head via the exhaust cam - it's therefore longer than the induction cam. However, later SRi engines use a crank trigger, which is 60-minus-two-teeth type and fitted on the end of the crank, internally. There are again two types of these as well. Ideally, you need the early type since these are machined from one-piece steel whereas the later types are pressed steel and crack. The ignition question is a concern, which we'll discuss later on, since the distributor clouts the bulkhead of a classic Ford when turned the right way. For classic Ford purposes, all the rest is junk - induction and especially exhaust which is truly restrictive in standard form. Since this is front-wheel drive anyway, you;ll therefore need a new one. |
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Block Blocks are tough as old boots and of no real concern. However, the oil feed to the head can get blocked up and most specialists such as SBD modify this area. Basically, the oil feed consists of a ball-bearing device which gets stuck so it's removed, the hole blocked up with abung, through which a 3/32 inch hole is drilled - the head doesn't need much oil in these engines. Extra capacity potential is there and pistons are available up to 88mm, which is maximum bore. This will give 2.1-litres and plenty of torque, although the most common is an 87.5mm combination for several reasons. First, standard head gaskets are available to this size and second, it still gives room for one more life in the block before it dies. |
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Cams SBD has its own series of around 12 different cams. However, they're very similar to Kents profiles ( they've just been tweaked to SBD's Steve Broughton's preferences). Mostly these have different duration figures on each cam whereas Kent's seem to be the same for the pair. As a guide, SBD's hydraulic 'road' cams will release up to 225 bhp on tapered throttle bodies and 200 bhp on carbs - you should this on a fairly standard head combination - ie porting and standard-size valves. A pair of race-spec cams such as Kent's AST1616 with 314 and 296 degrees duration or Piper A16VBP320M (although these have less duration but a similar lift) or SBD CM16V1195/304 should release power to at least 280 bhp depending on compression. The most SBD has got was a tad shy of 300 bhp. |
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XE Fitting You can slot a Vauxhall in your classic Ford quite easily since SBD stock a universal kit that chassis mounts the engine - it's quite cheap too. The stard Astra sump is actually at the back of the engine, although it's really Manta parts you need to properly sort the conversion. This unit alloy and has big wings to further increase oiling. They are hetting scarce now but use your head and they aren't impossible to find. It's an expensive option but SBD and Pace also do dry sump kits for thises engiens too. Other considerations are gearbox adaption and again you can use a Manta box, although it's only four-speed and has an integral bellhousing. It's not partuclarly strong and the ratios aren't particularly good. SBD again stock parts to the rescue; it stocks an alloy bellhousing available to adapt a Type 9, five-speed to the engine, which of course allows gear kits to be used too. As far as a clutch goes, the standard Vauxhall pressure pleate is retained, although you'll need a special clutchplate with Vauxhall outer and Ford-splined centre - SBD can sort this though. Next is the distributor question, which can be sorted with Manta parts and a custom-made bracket but we'd recommend using a crank trigger from an early SRi - the machined type - and blocking up the distributor hole. This needs some thought because you can't just lop the end of the cam to suit - there's an oil feed that runs up the middle that need sorting. The easiest way is to fit an aftermarket fast road cam - as if you needed an excuse. Or, you can drill and tap the end and Loctite a suitable bolt/bung in there. Ideally, you'll also need the rear flanges on the head machining flat and an aluminium plate made to cover the area. As far as the rest goes, you might have to dress the lip back on the bulkhead for clearance. You should get away with a standard Escort radiator for mild engines while there's plenty of performance alloy types that'll slot straight in from the likes of Pace and Prefab. So. the ideal engine you need, then is an Astra GTE, Coscast unit, with steel crank trigger and distributor conversion. |
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SBD
Motorsport Ltd, Unit 15, Red Lion Business Park, Red Lion Road, Surbiton,
Surrey. KT6 7QD. Tel: 0208 391 0121.
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