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Answer: It sounds as if you are half right. When the assembly was fitted, no account was taken to allow for clutch wear. You must dry fit the clutch cover with no clutch plate fitted, then slide the gearbox with the complete slave assembly and spacer fitted to the gearbox. You should then slide the gearbox onto the back of the engine. Now because the spacer is likely to be too long, you should be able to measure a gap between the block and bellhousing face. Say for example, it was 10mm, the spacer should be shortened by 11mm. This means that when the clutch is fully worn the slave cylinder/release bearing can never apply pressure to the clutch fingers. The extra mm is just a safety margin I always use.
Never leave the spacer out altogether, because the clutch slave only has a certain amount of travel. If you were to leave the spacer out completely, the chances are you could fire the hydraulic slave so far out that all the fluid could leak away.
Answer: Yes, it’s the same as the 2.0L version. We stock four types although only two are really suitable for you installation. They are either 150mm long for the standard length input shaft. We do 170mm long version, which is for the longer input shaft, normally used on the V6 ox (this helps with gear stick position).
Links: Bellhousings
Answer: We produce several different versions of clutch plates for use on the Ford gearbox. The simplest one is a 200mm kevlar clutch, which has up-rated material and springing with an 1" x 23 spline is a CLT-70-4628. We normally recommend this to people who are fitting the engine into a lightweight car such as a Westfield. We usually reckon it can cope with about 200 - 210bhp in a light car. if you are putting it into something like a rally car, we would recommend you have a paddle type version CLT-76-4628. This has the similar design, but with the up-rated material but still has springs to absorb the shock loads.
Links: Clutch Introduction
Answer: Yes, you do need a Spigot Bearing, The type you need go in the end of the crankshaft is CLT-SB1. Due to the fact that the recess in the back of the standard 16V crank is quite short you may need to grind a small amount off the end of your spigot shaft to make sure it does not run aground on the crank.
Links: Spigot Bearing